Thursday, January 31, 2013

EcoFarm: the organic church of the West


Over 1,500 people came together at the Asilomar conference center last week, just south of Monterey. Under pine trees and on white sand beaches they met and talked about all things related to sustainable agriculture. Lectures on subjects ranging from the Farm Bill to cover cropping were packed with attentive crowds. At meals, novice farmers sat shoulder-to-shoulder with seasoned producers. Business cards and advice flurried like a snowstorm.

This was the 33rd annual EcoFarm conference, which describes itself as the oldest and largest gathering of ecologically sustainable agriculture advocates in the West. People came from as far away as Malawi to participate in what Bolinas farmer Peter Martinelli called his yearly “organic church” experience. Most other attendees seemed to feel similarly.

“The EcoFarm conference is an essential organism in the body of organic agriculture that feeds the culture of farming,” said Dina Izzo of BluDog Organic Produce Services. “It feeds the heart and soul of many farmers who are isolated during the year, a reminder about brothers and sisters who along with them steward the earth while making measurable strides towards giving our earth the care she needs to thrive.”

The conference kicked off with preliminary events including a bus tour of sustainable farms, a butchery skills seminar, and a course in pollinator conservation. I missed this part, but it sounds excellent. In the body of the conference, there were roughly 30 workshops, lectures and discussion groups on Thursday and Friday, the two main days of the conference, and a dozen more on Saturday. These sessions were spread throughout the spacious, forested Asilomar campus; nametag-bedecked conference-goers were free to wander from one to the next.

People from my neck of the woods, West Marin, turned out in force—both as attendees and lectures. Albert Straus, owner of the renowned dairy, shared how his farm generates electricity using methane captured from manure. A talk on the implications and opportunities stemming from the 2012 Cottage Foods law was given by my friend Fred Smith.  Helge Hellberg, former ED of Marin Organic and producer of the radio show An Organic Conversation, offered advice on finding a niche market through specialty crops, value-added production, and selling the farm’s story.  And Penny Livingston-Stark of the Regenerative Design Institute in Bolinas discussed permaculture, local food independence, and regenerating our foodsheds.

National and regional notables were also present. Fermentation guru Sandor Katz lectured and led discussions on the benefits, biology, and history of ferments such as kimchi, kefir and sauerkraut. Mary Pittman—the Mary behind Mary’s Free Range Chickens—told how she and her husband managed to buck the pressure to grow conventional poultry. And Amigo Bob Cantisano, an organic farmer, activist, and one of the founders of EcoFarm, seemed to be everywhere at once, with his long dreadlocks bouncing.

Yet many of the most interesting exchanges were informal conversations. Whether in the cozy and rustic social hall—designed in 1912 by Julia Morgan—or around a late-night bonfire on the beach, EcoFarm is set up to encourage chance encounters. Meals were pricey but especially rewarding--you were seated randomly at large tables, perfect for meeting people. And because everyone there shared the goal of learning and networking, conversation was made even easier.

“The Ecological Farming Conference is the best place to be, come late January. Whether you are farmer, distributor, or just a person of interest, this is the highlight of the year for me,” said Steve Schuman of North Valley Produce. “It is not very often that we, as an industry, get to come together and learn, laugh, and play together. The potential is unlimited.”

The conference has certainly grown over the years. The very first one, in 1981, was held at the firehouse in the town of Winters, with 45 people in attendance. Then and now, the event is put on by the Ecological Farming Association, a non-profit focused on education, alliance building and advocacy.  The group describes their goal as promoting  a safe and healthful food system that strengthens soils, protects air and water, encourages diverse ecosystems and economies, and honors rural life. In addition to EcoFarm, the association also hosts the Hoes Down Harvest Festival and the Heartland Project.

The closing ceremony on Saturday held in a large, wood-walled hall where a dance had lasted into the small hours on the night before. In the morning, a more subdued group reconvened in rows to listen to a speech by nun, activist and organic farmer Miriam MacGillis. In the middle of the talk, which focused on the interconnectedness of life, MacGillis asked the audience to have a moment of silence while five women walked slowly up an aisle, bearing baskets of seeds like a sacrament. In silence, they passed the baskets into the crowd. In silence each person took one seed, to hold and contemplate as they listened to the rest of the talk.

“We aren’t in this world, we are it,” MacGillis said later. “From a seed sprouting to a thriving ecosystem, life is only possible through a complex web of relationships and ancient processes.”
(Pictures from 2012, courtesy of EcoFarm. A different version of this article was published in the Point Reyes Light on January 31.)




Monday, August 20, 2012

Harvest gleanings

On a sunny summer afternoon I find myself raking through rows of dry earth, scrabbling for perfect little pearls of potatos. This is a gleaning event with a local non-profit, Marin Organic. A local farm has opened their gates to the non-profit organization (and to us, their volunteers) so that we can come along and "clean up" after their regular crew has done their regular harvest. What most non-farmer folks don't realize is that there's plenty of good food left once a field has been worked over for market. On the day I went out to help harvest this "second crop", we filled boxes with potatos and bags with kale. The sun was warm, the breeze was fresh, the conversation was brisk, and the food we gathered is donated to local schools instead of lying in the field to rot. Marin Organic boasts that gleaning has delivered more than 160,000 pounds of organic produce to the schools since the program started. Who knew!

Sunday, August 5, 2012

Behind the cheese curtain

The Nicasio Valley Cheese Company is the latest innovation of a century-old dairy family. Today they are making award-winning--and organic--cheeses. Here are some photos from a behind-the-scenes tour of one of the Bay Area's many artisan cheese makers.





Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Have you ever been to Swans?

The room is long, narrow, and smells like the sea. Customers are crowded along a marble bar, behind which gruffly charming men sling fish and dish out sauce. This is Swan's oyster bar, a San Francisco institution that still is unknown to many. But though most of my friends look blank when I rave about my latest meal at Swan's, the line is still out the door at lunchtime. My dad and I have been coming here since I was a kid, and I'm always delighted to go back. Here is fresh, no-nonsense seafood, salads and chowder. The same family--several brothers, and now their kids--have been running it for decades, and it has a whiff of an older, bluer-collar San Francisco to it. I can't wait to go back.








Tuesday, July 17, 2012

What it feels like to be a cow

Visitors to the Giacomini Dairy get an up-close view of the milking stations (they are standing where the cows usually do). The dairy also produces award-winning cheeses, and on our tour we got to see the entire cycle of milk production from grass to calf to milking machines. But we weren't allowed in the cheese making room...

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Farming at the Urban Edge

This article was originally published in Bay Nature magazine.

by Jacoba Charles
On a typical early summer day at the Sunol Water Temple AgPark, Fred Hempel is multitasking. After advising two of his workers who are having trouble filling a restaurant order for edible radish pods, the wiry farmer fields phone calls as he walks between hunched rows of tomato plants, inspecting his most prized crop.
Fred Hempel of Baia Nicchia farms
“Even with the cool weather the last couple of days these things are growing like crazy,” he says. “We really need to get them trellised up. Is that a ripening tomato over there? That’s amazing!”
He pulls out a pocketknife and the tomato–a muddy greenish-red–is sliced, tasted, and dismissed as too watery. To an untrained palate, the barely ripe fruit is better than any at the grocery store. But Hempel is a biotech research scientist turned tomato breeder turned farmer, and his preferences are exacting. He says they need to be.
“The tomatoes make the most money by far,” he says. “The first thing we think about every day is, ‘how are the tomatoes doing.’”
Yet diversity and creativity are essential to survival and success as a small commercial organic farmer, Hempel adds. In addition to the heirloom tomatoes, his 10-acre farm at the AgPark east of Fremont also grows unusual varieties of squash, peppers, exotic herbs, and edible flowers.
“We do a lot of testing of crops from other places,” he says, explaining that finding seeds that thrive in this particular place can be a time-consuming process. But the effort has been worth it, letting him build up a business working with high-end wholesalers, plus direct relationships with Bay Area restaurants that ask him to grow varieties they can’t get anywhere else. “The chef at Oliveto was in Italy a few months ago, and he brought back some stuff for us to grow,” Hempel says, pointing out some red-stalked corn seedlings in his greenhouse as an example.
The historic Water Tempel, as seem from the Sunol AgPark.
Diversity and creativity are likewise hallmarks of the 18-acre AgPark in general. Though it looks like any other small farm–a patchwork of neatly tilled rows ribboned with dirt roads–this is in fact an innovative collaboration between a public agency, a nonprofit organization, and private businesses. Hempel’s Baia Nicchia is the largest of the four farms on the property. Others include Terra Bella, which grows produce for its community-supported agriculture business; Iu-Mien Village Farms, a collective of Laotian immigrants whose organic strawberries are sold at places like Monterey Market in Berkeley; and Fico, a small heirloom fig enterprise.
The AgPark is the brainchild of the nonprofit organization SAGE, or Sustainable Agriculture Education. The goal of the project is to support community-benefit farming, natural resource stewardship, and public education. SAGE leases the land from the San Francisco Public Utilities Commission (SFPUC), then subleases parcels to farmers who get infrastructure, community, and support in exchange for participating in public education programs that SAGE conducts on the farm.
“It would’ve been really hard to do what we’re doing in any other place,” says Hempel, who started Baia Nicchia with partner Jill Shepherd in 2006. “[SAGE] provided mentoring–how to put in irrigation, when to weed, what kind of tractor to buy. And if you’re selling things in the Bay Area, you can’t beat the location here.”
All that was part of the plan, says AgPark education manager Roger Kubalek of SAGE. Today, the group is developing a new curriculum and working with SFPUC on plans for a visitor center. “Now that the farming and the stewardship aspects of the program are on their way, we’ve started to focus in on education,” he explains. “It’s a great place to learn. Many of the students have never visited a real working farm.”

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Free, free on the range...

While hiking near Point Reyes Station I spotted this calf, romping like a puppy across a pasture. I don't actually know whether this particular calf is fated for a plate--but I do know that plenty of local, grass-fed cattle do have similar freedom (eg Stemple Creek Ranch meats of Tomales, which have some of the best flavor that I've tasted. But there is a wide variety to choose from...)






Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Rethinking the Farm


This article was originally published in Marin Magazine.
By Jacoba Charles
Inside a bright, high-ceilinged room, students watch chef Tracey Shepos Cenami of Kendall-Jackson Winery make a summer salad of melon and prosciutto. As she peels a large honeydew, people take notes and sip wine. A screen mounted on the wall shows a close-up view of the demonstration. This is The Fork, the Giacomini family’s latest enterprise. A center for cooking classes and other events, The Fork sits in the middle of the family’s working dairy farm on a hillside north of Point Reyes Station. Students, paying upwards of $100, are offered a behind-the-scenes tour full of gritty detail: Newborn calves, grassy fields, feeding barns and muck — it’s all there.

“We think it’s important to show how everything they see outside translates to the flavors on the plate,” says Jill Giacomini Basch, one of four sisters who are now running — and diversifying — the family business. Eleven years ago the sisters started the Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, and in 2010 they opened The Fork. “We decided to quit our day jobs, come back to the farm to really give it a go,” Basch says.

Marin County has a strong agricultural heritage, with many ranching families such as the Giacominis going back five to seven generations. Dairy farming is a $26 million-a-year business in Marin, and small, family-run dairies and cattle ranches still dominate Marin’s rural west side. But keeping these ranches financially sustainable — and keeping younger generations involved — has been a struggle.

Roughly half the land in Marin is still used for agriculture, but ranching has never been a way to get rich, especially here in one of the most expensive places in the country to live. Phyllis Faber, one of the founders of the Marin Agriculture Land Trust, which buys the development rights to rural land in order to preserve it for agricultural use, notes that ranchers are challenged by the high price of land and fuel, combined with demand for low-cost food.

Moreover, “a lot of our farmers don’t have the big acreage necessary to compete if they are just producing conventional milk and conventional beef through the normal markets,” says Dave Lewis, director of the University of California Cooperative Extension program in Marin, which provides agricultural resources to farmers and ranchers as well as consumers. So local farmers are turning their small size, their prime location and a growing demand for local, fresh food to their advantage through value-added products.

Instead of simply selling their milk at low prices to traditional dairy cooperatives, local dairy families such as the Giacominis of Point Reyes Station, the Lafranchis of Nicasio and the Strauses of Marshall are making cheese, yogurt or ice cream that they sell directly to consumers or grocery stores. Instead of traditional corn-fed beef, local ranchers such as Dave Evans of Point Reyes Peninsula’s Marin Sun Farms, the Pancias of Tomales’ Stemple Creek Ranch and the Gales of Chileno Valley Ranch are switching to grass-fed herds and adding other livestock such as sheep, goats and pigs.

In addition, many West Marin ranchers are responding to the growing demand for fresh, local food by going organic, or cutting out the middleman and selling straight to customers at farmers’ markets or on the ranch. Some, such as the Pancias, also lease their land to up-and-coming organic farmers and other agricultural entrepreneurs such as cheesemakers. From making jams and jellies to sausages and steaks, people are still finding a way to earn their living from the land.

“In the last 10 years the value-added concept has gone from a few pioneers and innovators to being part of the norm,” says Lewis of UC Extension. “What’s really great is that the next generation sees this as their addition to the farm. They love that they are continuing the family tradition while bringing some new business skills and their own motivation.”

Returning to Their Roots

“We’re a 90-plus-year-old dairy operation, and now we’re engaging in cheesemaking traditions from the same village in Switzerland that our grandfather was born in,” Rick Lafranchi says, sitting at a table in the salesroom of Nicasio Valley Cheese Company, which opened last year on Nicasio Valley Road. A large glass window in one wall enables visitors to watch Rick’s brother Scott work in a white-tiled room making one of the company’s six varieties of farmstead cheese. Down the road, Randy Lafranchi manages the family’s organic dairy.

“We started talking about cheese after a visit to Switzerland,” says Rick. “We looked on it as a chance to allow the ranch to continue, because the dairy business has been really hard for the last 10 years.”

The new venture not only is financially stable but has also enabled Rick and his siblings to rejoin the family business. “We wanted something that would let the dairy survive as well as thrive and also make the best use of the land,” he says. “Cheese seemed to make the most sense — and we have a passion for it. It’s been very exciting, very challenging and very rewarding.”

The Lafranchis are part of a growing coterie of local cheese-makers. Though Marin French Cheese has been operating since 1865, the opening of Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station nearly 15 years ago marked the beginning of an explosion in cheesemaking in the county. Now numbers of artisan cheesemakers are increasing throughout California, and more than half are located in Marin and Sonoma counties. A third of them opened their doors within the last three years, with more set to open soon.

Building a Better Buffalo

One of those budding cheesemakers is Craig Ramini, who left his Silicon Valley job to launch a second career making America’s first water buffalo mozzarella. “It’s exciting to think that cheese is emerging as an artisan industry in the county,” says Ramini, who leases 25 acres of ranchland from the Poncia family, near Tomales. He expects to produce his first experimental batches in a few months.

While there is inherent value in using an exotic animal like water buffalo — which are renowned in Italy for making a delicious mozzarella — there also are challenges, Ramini says. Because the breed that is common in the United States has always been a meat animal, they are not temperamentally or physically suited to producing milk.

“Imagine if someone said, ‘We want you to start a cheese business, but you have to use beef Angus,’ ” says Ramini. “It’s really hard. It would be lovely if you could just load a bunch of these buffalo on a plane in Italy and fly them over, but the USDA won’t let you do that.”

Branching Out

Cheese isn’t the only field in which ranchers have been diversifying. “In the last five years, what we see at the farmers’ market has changed drastically,” says Brigitte Moran, CEO of the Agricultural Institute of Marin, which operates the weekly farmers’ markets at the Civic Centers as well as others throughout the region. “A bunch of ranchers have transitioned into selling directly to the consumer. And we’ve seen a lot of diversity from farmers who used to only do one crop; they are going back to the old ways where they had a diversified farm.”

One example of this diversification is Chileno Valley Ranch, a 600-acre spread that sits in a broad valley between Petaluma and Tomales. As twilight throws a rosy glow on the surrounding hills, owner Mike Gale crosses a pasture to check on three 900-pound steers that have been put in a corral, ready to be shipped to slaughter in the morning. “Our main business is our beef business,” Gale says. “Everything else is secondary and complementary to the raising of beef.”

Yet the beef business that Gale runs along with his wife, Sally — who is the fifth generation of a local ranching family — is far from conventional. Instead of selling their cattle to brokers who fatten them up on feedlots as far away as Idaho or Oregon, the Gales sell a minimum of a quarter of an animal, and only to individuals. The steers stay on the property until they are sent to the slaughterhouse in Petaluma; customers can pick up their cut and wrapped steaks at Ibleto Meats in Cotati. A quarter of a steer yields about 100 pounds of steaks and other cuts and costs about $375 fully butchered.

“We learned within a year that the traditional model wasn’t going to work for us,” says Gale. “Ranching is a lot like biology: You have to evolve or die.” Since the couple moved to Marin in 1993, they have experimented with different ways to make ranching pay. Today they sell pasture-raised eggs, heritage breed pork, and lamb in addition to beef. During the fall, they also have a you-pick produce business. Visitors can drop by the farm on Sundays and harvest the certified organic apples, pears and tomatoes that grow in tidy rows in the lee of a weathered barn. “Basically we are selling a story — it’s the story of how we do ranching,” says Gale. “But if people don’t like your product you don’t have a business.”

Friday, August 26, 2011

Wine vs. Salmon: Water Wars Hit Sonoma County

This article was originally published in the New York Times and the Bay Citizen.

The dense forests of redwood, oak and Douglas fir that once covered much of Sonoma County have for many decades been giving way to pastures, orchards, subdivisions — and vineyards.

Now, those vineyards are emerging as yet another threat to a fish that would go just perfectly with the region’s signature pinot noir: the coho salmon.

Battered by a long history of habitat loss, logging and development, a dwindling number of coho struggle to survive in the rivers and streams where they return every year to spawn. Now they must contend with water-hungry vines, and especially a frost-prevention method that involves spraying plants with 50 gallons of water per acre, per minute. In smaller tributaries, the technique can literally suck stretches of a stream dry.

“There are a lot more grape vineyards than there really is water for,” said Brian Cluer, a scientist with the National Marine Fisheries Service.

The acreage planted in vines has increased as much as 50 percent in some parts of the county over the last decade, and Mr. Cluer said the county was still issuing permits for new vineyards without requiring proof of an adequate water supply. “It’s a water-scarce area,” Mr. Cluer said, “and permitting and regulation hasn’t addressed that. It’s been a big mistake.”

Though salmon are the biggest concern, vineyards’ water use has effects that ripple through local ecosystems and communities. In the last three years, the fisheries service has documented more than 60 vineyard-related deaths of juvenile coho, an endangered species, and steelhead trout, a threatened species, in three streams. It estimated that in one of the events more than 25,000 fry, or baby fish, were probably killed. Sonoma County enacted an ordinance last year that asks vintners to register with the county if they use water from streams, but it imposes no limits on such use and allows landowners to monitor stream flows themselves. The State Water Board is now preparing to step in with much stricter rules to protect fish.

The proposed rules, along with sporadic efforts to sanction vintners after the fact, have met with vociferous objections from an industry that views itself as environmentally conscious. Green Pastures Valley, a 10-acre vineyard outside Healdsburg that boasts of its conservation ethic, is disputing a $115,000 fine levied last year by the fisheries service , which said it killed young coho by pumping too much water for frost protection. 

“The small farmer is the endangered species here,” Eric Stadnik, a co-owner of Green Pastures Valley, wrote in an e-mail. “I hope we can avoid bankruptcy over this ordeal.”

The Sonoma County Winegrape Commission also objects to the idea that vineyards are responsible for serious environmental harm. “I don’t think the scale of the problem is nearly as large as has been assumed,” said Nick Frey, the commission president.

The fisheries service disagrees. “Common sense tells us that there likely are more events that we aren’t aware of,” said Dan Torquemada, chief investigator with the agency’s Office of Law Enforcement in Santa Rosa.

Environmental organizations have increasingly begun to monitor vineyards’ behavior. “If we see something out of the ordinary, we initiate the complaint process,” said Steve Krimel, co-chairman of Save Mark West Creek. Mr. Krimel blames viticulture for a steady decline in the stream that flows through his backyard near Santa Rosa.

“The local vineyard and the local winery up the road are sucking it dry from the headwaters,” he said. Chris Poehlman, president of Friends of the Gualala River, describes seeing oddly fluctuating streamflows in areas where vineyards and other heavy water users are found.

“In the summertime,” Mr. Poehlman said, “there’s been severe drawdowns with no correlation to the weather. The water level goes up and down, and that takes water from pockets where fish are trying to survive.”

Water levels are only one of the issues worrying Mr. Poehlman’s organization, which has spent years opposing vineyard proposals in Annapolis, a remote town west of the Russian River valley. More viticulture means interrupted wildlife corridors and less biodiversity, the group says.

“Once one project gets approved it will set a precedent for others,” said Dave Jordan, a member of the group, adding that he has seen the tide of vineyards overtake neighboring landscapes. “Now all of the trees are gone, and it’s just grapes from one side of the hill to the other. We want to avoid that same fate here.”

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Twilight of the tanbark oak

The beautiful tree is dying.

From Big Sur to Brookings, entire groves have browned and fallen. Single snags stand in forests like wisps of smoke, like ghosts.

Sudden Oak Death is old news now - but how does news of a plague become old? The beautiful tree is dying, and eventually it will be gone. With its loss, the entire balance of our Pacific coastal forests will change.

There is a reason the Kashaya-Pomo called the tan oak Chishkale, or "beautiful tree". Its copious harvest of acorns was one of the most prolific and reliable food sources around. The Kashaya soaked and beat the nuts into breads and cakes, gruel and soup. During a flu, acorns were sucked like a cough drop, and the tannins were said to soothe the throat. Strung acorns were twirled in the air to make music.

Chishkale has been a generous neighbor to humans and non-humans alike. Northern flying squirrels, dusky footed woodrats and black salamanders are just a few of the myriad creatures that call its root and limbs home. Tan oak's bitter nuts are a staple food for deer, squirrels, woodpeckers and jays. They were a favorite snack for grizzlies, before the bears were driven from the state. And when feral pigs arrived, acorns became a rooting prize for the hogs as well. Other creatures eat the creatures that eat the acorns, and when fruit and flesh decay, still more creatures dine on that.

The tan oak's nutrient-packed nuts are a key fuel driving the engine of the ecosystem here in the coastal hills where it lives. Without them the engine will falter-and then, because nature eternally adapts, it will change. But something precious will be gone for good.

So, if you aren't from around here, go outside now. Go and spend time with the tanoaks while groves still live. While they still stand in crowds and pairs and sometimes singly amongst other trees on a hillside.

Ideally, do this in late summer, when the acorns have fallen and you can see how thick they are on the ground. Find somewhere that the trees grow closely. In places the acorns crunch under your feet like gravel. Notice how dark green the leaves are: serrated like a bread knife, with undersides coated with a soft beige fuzz.

Leave the trail; you are on a brown carpet of those fallen leaves. The air smells uniquely dusty and a little soft, like the leaf-fuzz you saw. Sunlight filters down in small shifting patches, and squirrels and jays chatter and call. You may notice that the sound these particular branches make in the wind is like all branches in all wind, and also like no other branches on the planet. If it is a warm day maybe you will want to find a nice tree, an old one with a broad trunk, and take a nap at its base. When you wake up, you may think of how long your companion has been in this spot, of what it has stood witness to. And remember that soon it-and all of its kin-will be leaving.






References:
Forest legacies, climate change, altered disturbance regimes, invasive species and water.

Journal of California and Great Basin Anthropology, UC Merced.

Native plants associated with Sudden Oak Death and their use by California Indians: Fact Sheet #6.

Sudden Oak Death: endangering California and Oregon ecosystems.

USDA NRCS national plant data center plant guide.

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Safe food bill threatens small, organic farms

by Jacoba Charles

Owners of small farms rarely have extra time or money. But they may soon need more of both, as pending federal legislation would tighten regulations on the growing, harvesting, and processing of produce.

The Food Safety Modernization Act currently making its way through the Senate emerged in the wake of the E. Coli outbreaks in 2006. The bill is expected to create additional regulations that will be applied to farms of all sizes and styles. What is still unknown is how onerous those requirements will be for small and organic farmers.

“The bill has a lot of potentially big and unpleasant impacts on small-scale agriculture and local food chains,” said Helge Hellberg, executive director of Marin Organic.

Ramifications of the bill could include extensive food safety plans; electronic tracking of all products; an annual fee; and a variety of on-farm regulations ranging from water testing to exclusion of wildlife to verification that workers washed their hands after using the bathroom.

“It’s easy for the big farms if someone needs to monitor the toilets, but a small farm couldn’t do that,” said Dave Runsten, director of the Community Alliance with Family Farmers. “Is the farmer suddenly going to become responsible for writing down on a sheet of paper every time someone uses the bathroom, and vouch that they washed their hands?”

Advocates for small farms don’t question the need for improved safety regulations, particularly regarding industrial food processing – which they say causes the majority of contamination and illness. But they do worry that regulations designed to improve food safety in large agricultural operations will also be applied to small farms.

“As a nation, there are lots of reasons why we need better regulation of industrial food,” Hellberg said. “But at the same time we have to allow this beautiful, emerging local food movement to get stronger and stronger.”

Efforts to exempt small farms from the new legislation have failed, to date. However, advocates of small and organic farms have been working to get some of the bill's language and requirements of the bill changed before it is approved.

“We’re trying to limit the impacts on smaller farms and people who aren’t just pursuing conventional agriculture,” Runsten said. “We’re trying to get rules that people can live with.”

The bill has already been greatly improved from its original form, according to Runsten. Accomplishments include specifying that the new rules be compatible with the USDA’s National Organic Program, and reducing the product tracking requirements.

Many credit the current popularity of local and sustainably grown food as the reason such changes are possible.

“I think if it wasn’t for that movement that was happening, the FDA and other legislators wouldn’t even want to talk to us,” said Jo Ann Baumgartner, director of the Wild Farm Alliance.

But the battle over the Senate bill is only one step in a prolonged process that will determine the legislation’s eventual impact on farmers. A similar bill was passed by Congress last year, which was much less amenable to small farming operations. Once the Senate bill is approved, a committee will merge the two bills and create a new, final piece of legislation.

Even if the changes that have been incorporated into the Senate bill survive in the final law, local farmers will almost certainly be affected. For Runsten, an example of good news would be if only one water quality test is required per year; bad news would be if a test is required every time a new crop is planted. And the paperwork will certainly increase, he said – it’s just a matter of by how much.

“Farmers are already maxed out with their work load, and adding more layers of bureaucracy isn’t going to make things any easier,” said Jesse Kuhn of Marin Roots Farm on the Point Reyes-Petaluma road. “Paperwork is one of the hardest things about the farm business. I don’t think any farmer got into this to do paperwork, and especially being certified organic there’s already an amazing amount of it.”

If the new law calls for substantial changes to infrastructure – like upgraded washing stations – it could spell the end of his business, Kuhn said.

One of the most common concerns is that the legislation brings farming more directly under the oversight of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which will be responsible for interpreting and enforcing the new legislation.

“Famers big or small are nervous because the FDA has always acted as kind of police agency,” Runsten said. “They come out and take pictures and take records and so on.”

The FDA denies that this will be the case. “We will not approach this in the conventional way where FDA sets a standard and sends inspectors out trying to enforce it,” spokesperson Patricia El-Hinnawy wrote in a prepared statement.

Addressing the worries of small farmers, the FDA stated that it recognizes “the critical diversity of the commodities involved—geographical diversities, differences in scale of operations, and differences in the nature of operations, such as conventional versus organic.” But what this will mean on the ground remains unknown.

Though the legislation has not been finalized – and it’s unclear when it will be – the FDA has already begun the process of making the rules that the law will eventually allow them to enforce. They conducted “listening sessions” in 13 states, including California, and are now accepting public input on how to improve food safety on farms.

“I think the FDA has heard the message and now they’re looking for practical solutions,” Runsten said. “They want to hear from the farmers – what can you do, what can't you do? How much do these things cost?”

“It’s not going to hurt for consumers to tell the FDA, ‘Back off my food supply,' either,” he added.

Public comments on the Food Safety process will remain open until July 23.  Readers can register their comments at http://www.regulations.gov using docket number FDA-2010-N-0085. Written comments may be sent to the Division of Dockets Management (HFA-305), Food and Drug Administration, 5630 Fishers Lane, rm. 1061, Rockville, MD 20852.


(Originally published in the Point Reyes Light on June 24, 2010)

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

From Family to Flames, and Home Again: How Household Garbage Becomes Electricity

by Jacoba Charles

Origins
In the large backyard of a gray, two-story house with purple shutters, bright orange fish swim languidly beneath an electric pond heater. Nearby stands a plastic swing set, primary colors paling with time. There is a pile of flowerpots, and a cluster of tall plastic cans near the corner of the garage. On a cold, damp morning, their upturned lids fill with ice, and whoever takes out the garbage has to bang them hard against the fence before they fit back where they belong.

But this isn’t a story about people, or swingsets, or fish. It’s a story about energy, and how we make it. It’s a story about the basics, and why they aren’t as simple as they might seem. Mostly, it’s a story about garbage and electricity and how the one turns into the other; and it begins and ends with a house.

Beginning at this house, with its goldfish and flowerpots and purple shutters, is an accident of chance. A very similar story could begin at any of the nearly 6,000 homes in the four square miles of the industrial city of Rahway, located in Union County New Jersey. It could even begin in any of the 87 other cities in the United States that also make their power, in part, by burning their garbage.

At 10:05 on a Sunday morning in February, the woman who lives in the house with the purple shutters threw away a Styrofoam tray that recently held a pound of ground turkey. The turkey went into her chili, and the package into the kitchen garbage can. Her name is Audrey Angrisoni, and she was born and raised in New Jersey. For the last 16 years she, her husband and their growing family have owned this tall house beside the busy traffic of Madison Hill Road.

Angrisoni, 44, cooks early and in batches – as a full-time mom operating her own business, she doesn’t have time to make a meal every night. The turkey chili she made early that Sunday became lunches and snacks for the next several days, while the small white container that held the turkey was forgotten almost immediately: cleared off the kitchen counter into the knee-high white can behind white-slatted closet doors in the corner. The tray nestled in among crumpled paper towels, a milk carton, an empty package of Doritos, and other garbage that had accumulated since Thursday night. At 11:15 that same morning, Angrisoni took the almost-full white plastic bag from the closet and dropped it in the gray can standing outside with the recycling and yard waste cans. Only that one bag was taken out of the house that weekend, and when she left at 6 p.m. to drive her daughter to a study group at church, Angrisoni dragged the nearly empty plastic can to the top of her driveway.


On the Move

At 9:53 on a cold, hazy morning, the trash Angrisoni had set out the night before was tossed into the dirty white garbage truck #10 by Fernando Munoz. Munoz is a slight man, dressed in brown and trimmed in black: brown sweatshirt, brown denim workpants, black ski cap and work boots and thick dirty gloves. Over this, a fluorescent green safety vest. He tosses bags and empties cans with unhurried, fluid ease as the beetle-like truck beside him creeps forward, compacting its load every house or two. When the piles are large or close together, his partner Bill Dickson gets out of the cab and slings garbage too.

Over the course of a year, the garbagemen of Rahway collect roughly 14,000 tons of trash: the weight of 2,000 elephants, half the weight of the trash that New York City produces in a single day. The men who move the garbage get up for work around four in the morning, and they are out in the trucks from 6 a.m until noon, four days a week. On Wednesdays, they collect recycling instead. “Everybody thinks it’s just picking up a can and throwing it in,” Dickson said of his work. “But they do it a little while and they get disgusted. You’ve got to deal with bottles of urine, cat crap, dog crap, in the summer you’ve got maggots. It’s not peaches and cream.”

As he turned the crank on the side of the truck, and the metal wedge descended to grind the Angrisoni’s single bag into the 9.6 tons of other people’s waste, a sick-smelling pale juice dribbled down the metal. “Yeah,” Munoz agreed, “it’s pretty gross.” Another area of the truck, near the bumper, bled a brilliantly raspberry-colored liquid, still containing seeds, onto the pavement.

Twenty minutes after the Angrisoni’s trash became irrevocably anonymous amid all the other anonymous garbage, truck #10 was ready to be emptied. On typical winter days, a truck may only fill up once; on heavy days, in summers or after a holiday, it may be emptied two or even three times. In Rahway, there is no landfill or transfer station. All household waste is collected by Dickson, Munoz, and their 16 co-workers and taken straight to the Union County Resource Recovery Facility, also known as a waste-to-energy power plant.

At 10:40 a.m., less than an hour after the garbage was picked up, Dickson arrived at the power plant scalehouse, where every truck is weighed in, and then drove into the cavernous warehouse located in the belly of the plant. There, a mile and a quarter from where the beetle-truck collected the Angrisoni’s paper plates, orange peels, and turkey carton, the garbage was deposited. During the busiest time of day, as many as six trucks may be in the warehouse, which is known as the tipping bay. On that particular morning, though, truck #10 was alone in the vast building that looks like an airplane hangar and smells like a landfill. Mothers who bring their children from the other side of town to the nearby Madden ball field are a little surprised that the stink doesn’t spread beyond the warehouse. Inside the facility, the garbage-laden air is used to fuel the incinerators, so it can’t escape into the community. All day and every day, fresh air streams in, replacing the tainted air that feeds the fires.

The odor in the warehouse emanates from the trucks, from the slime-covered ground, and – most of all – from a garbage collection pit 40 feet deep, 40 feet wide and 300 feet long, that stretches from one end of the warehouse to the other. When truck #10 arrived, the pit was well beyond full, as it is on most days. The trash rose up in mountains, the tallest of which towered some 30 feet into the air. Two six-clawed overhead cranes, like props from a science fiction movie, constantly bit eight-ton chunks out of the pile: moving it, mixing it, and lifting it to the furnace.

Though the roof over the dumping floor is low, about 25 feet high, the ceiling is four times higher over the pit, where the cranes swoop and reel from shadowy, orange-lit rafters. Above the garbage, behind the cranes, a grate-covered wall can be seen sucking air into the furnaces. Engorged trucks – medium-sized ones like Dickson’s, or larger 20-ton trucks from transfer stations in other cities – back right up to the pit, then drive slowly away as they dump, spreading their contents across the slick cement floor. A long trail of trash unwinds behind them, abandoned offerings left at the feet of a trash-mountain shrine.

Half the donations that come to this particular fiery altar are from 19 local cities, townships and boroughs in Union County. The other half are trucked in over bridges and turnpikes from New York City, less than an hour away. The trash flows in almost ceaselessly along an arterial system of highways and turnpikes and city streets, pumped out of homes and businesses and collected at the incinerator. At this final resting place, 4,200 tons of garbage are gathered and left on the muck-covered cement floor of the tipping bay every weekday. Roughly 520,000 tons are burned in the power plant each year – the equivalent of stuffing 11 ships the size of the Titanic in your fireplace.

Garbage is burning all across America: the weight of 600 Titanics, in trash, is incinerated each year in 88 waste-to-energy plants. Though this is a massive amount of garbage, it is only 8 percent of what we throw away each year, and incineration generates less than 1 percent of our electricity. Current waste-to-energy technology could provide up to 3 percent of America’s electricity and replace the equivalent of 300 million barrels of oil if all non-recycled garbage was burned. But burning is an expensive and unpopular option in this country. In other countries, more than 200 new waste-to-energy plants have been built in the last decade, bringing the global total to 600 and rising. Europe alone is home to 400 of those, and Japan incinerates 74 percent of its trash. The incineration process found at Union County, called “mass burn,” is the most common and extracts between 20 and 30 percent of the energy generated by the furnaces. More efficient plants capture 50 percent of that energy, and foreseeable technology – what one expert calls the “elegant future of waste-to-energy” – will transform garbage into a homogenous fuel comparable to natural gas, which would be even more versatile and efficient.

In the United States, incineration is most common in urban areas that have less space for landfills. The Northeast sends the largest portion of its garbage – about 20 percent – to the furnaces. Nationwide, however, the industry is in decline. Efforts to get new plants built inevitably run into community opposition as well as economic hurdles; the image of the toxin-spewing incinerators of the 1980s has been hard to shake. Locals worry about pollutants and odor and increased truck traffic on already busy roads. Some groups oppose the waste-to-energy process out of concern that it will discourage recycling by making garbage disposal appear less wasteful. However, no study has been done that supports such concerns, whereas several studies have found that states with more waste-to-energy plants like Michigan and Maine also have higher rates of recycling, up to 20 percent above the national average.

Before Dickson drove truck #10 back out into the cold sunshine, he got out of the cab, finished his coffee, and tossed the white paper cup into the garbage mountain – a single, personalized donation. While he took a moment to knock straggling bits of trash from the frame of his truck, a janitor who cleans the plant’s offices emerged from one of the interior doors and tossed his own token, a shiny black bag, onto the pile.


The Bardo
Dirty yellow front-end loaders work like busy insects among the long trails of garbage disgorged by each truck. The trucks spread the trash out thinly enough so that men driving the loaders can scan the piles for non-burnable materials: a toxic pile of paint cans, chunks of concrete, a refrigerator. They pull out whatever they need to, sending it to a landfill or to be recycled. A row of dumpsters along one wall waits to receive electronics, appliances, and large metal objects. The operators don’t sweat the small stuff – the system is designed to accommodate some undesirable materials slipping through. No fine-scale sorting is done after the garbage leaves homes and businesses to come to the plant; by the time it gets to the tipping floor everything that can’t easily be seen is going to be burned.

If the Angrisoni’s garbage bag had been fluorescent pink, maybe it would have reappeared for a minute as the loader operator examined the contents of truck #10. Once a local woman found her engagement ring by looking through the bags spread out on the tipping floor; she was lucky and stubborn and she and her fiancée searched for hours. Garbage bags, in their two-tone spectrum of black and white, are as easy to tell apart as New York taxicabs from a window on the 86th floor. When each pile of garbage on the floor is approved as burnable, the drivers push it into the pit to join other household trash bags and wilted lettuce and shattered lumber and wax-covered cardboard produce boxes and nearly every other sort of detritus the mind can dream up.

Dealing with our trash is a steadily growing problem. Of all the countries in the world, the United States throws away the most stuff – almost 390 tons each year. China produces almost as much garbage as we do, but has a population that is over four times as large. Despite recycling rates of about 28 percent, the average American still creates one ton of solid waste every year that must either be burned or entombed in a landfill. Garbage burial grounds gobble up green spaces, threatening groundwater with toxic ooze while emitting methane, the most potent greenhouse gas. Transportation of trash to landfills is also an increasing problem, particularly in those parts of America with more people in less space, or with stricter regulations against landfill placement, such as the Northeast and California respectively. Many of these areas ship their garbage by truck, train or barge to other states, adding to the pollution that waste disposal causes. Most of the trash from New York City is shipped as many as 370 miles to landfills in Pennsylvania and Virginia.

At the Union County plant, trash arrives in heterogeneous, uneven loads. There is wet garbage and dry garbage, trucks full of vegetables and trucks full of drywall. Commercial waste is more likely to be dominated by a certain genre of trash: leftovers from a grocery store, paper scraps from an office. Household garbage is fine-grained, more mixed. The job of the big, busy cranes is to manage whatever the trucks bring in by moving it from one pile to the next – keeping it in the pit long enough to dry out and blend together, so that the fuel burns as consistently as it can.

No one will ever know how long it took for the Angrisoni’s Styrofoam turkey tray to disappear into the furnace, but Jim Helfer, business manager of Covanta Energy, the company that operates the facility, says it was probably three days, though its stay might have been much shorter. The crane operators have a system, organizing the garbage mounds so that each truckload of garbage is burned within no more than three days. But some things get burned too soon; scraps fall out from between the teeth of the enormous cranes; no sorting process is perfect.

What is known is that at some point the crane scooped up that one little man-made scrap of reconfigured fossil fuel – for Styrofoam is manufactured from petroleum – and didn’t toss it back into the sea of garbage. Instead, it was raised into the rafters with eight tons of other detritus, and carried into an interior bay tucked 50 feet up in the gut of the power plant, where it was dropped into one of three enormous funnels that each feeds one of the power plant’s three furnaces.

Each crane-load joins a compacted column of garbage that completely fills the funnel, slowly slipping downward. At the bottom, the trash, or fuel, is rhythmically stuffed into the furnace by a hydraulic ram at the base of the funnel’s spout. The column of garbage doubles as a cork – since it blocks all oxygen, no flames escape upward when the furnace is stoked with a fresh supply of trash. The ram works in concert with a door that flaps open into the furnace. When it reached that point, about 20 minutes after being lifted from the pit, things became very different very quickly for our piece of garbage.


Earth, Air, and Fire
Inside each 1,700-degree incinerator a yellow-orange inferno rages, fueled by 500 tons of garbage a day and fanned by air sucked in from the tipping bay. The door, where the trash makes its grand rammed-in entrance from the funnel, is at the top of a floor that slopes downward like a broad playground slide. Instead of being slide-smooth, which would let the garbage tumble to the bottom without burning completely, the floor is a ridged conveyor belt that constantly moves against gravity like an “up” escalator. This keeps half-burnt trash mixed in with the newly arrived load at the top, where the fire burns the hottest. A piece of paper or plastic would combust almost instantly; a phone book or the leg of a chair might take 15 minutes; a large tree stump might emerge from the incinerator before being entirely consumed. The escalator is designed for large, or wet, slow-burning objects: logs, bicycles, watermelons.

Visitors and technicians can look through a tempered-glass window into each of the furnaces, and watch garbage vaporize. Spurts of pale orange flame burst out of a moonscape of fire and ash that slopes upward, away from the window; at the top of the slope, where the fresh garbage arrives, there is a solid wall of fire. Toward the bottom, closer to the window, there is less fire and a few hard-to-burn items: a collection of coffee cans, a tangle of wire, and a piece of wood that looks like the trunk of a small tree jut out of a chunky landscape of ash.

Each tremendous fire is confined in a 20-foot square box, suspended along one wall of a building that makes the airplane-hanger-sized tipping warehouse look small. No view is unobstructed for more than ten feet, like an industrial version of a jungle. The cavernous interior of the six-story, cement-walled building is jumbled with catwalks and beams; cables, pipes and wires loop through space like lianas. Helmeted, blue-suited maintenance workers stalk up and down ladders; three mechanics are on duty in the plant at all times. The warm air smells chalky, like drying concrete, and there is a terrific clatter and hiss and hum. All the seeming chaos is carefully planned and continuously maintained, designed entirely to deal with the three byproducts of burning garbage: ash, toxic air, and heat.

Within a day or three of leaving Audrey Angrisoni’s kitchen, when the last of the chili had just been eaten, her Styrofoam tray met the furnace flame and was vaporized within seconds. The more tangible leftovers of the burning – the ash that was once a Doritos bag and the twisted frame of a bicycle, for example - tumbled into a quenching pool at the bottom of the slide after about 45 minutes in the fiery chamber. After being drenched in water for half an hour, they were spit out below the pool in a thick stream of what looks like chunky wet concrete, punctuated with pieces of metal. This gooey mess, which weighed 75 percent less than when it went in, was dropped onto a vibrating belt that runs below all three furnaces. The discards were carried right out a door at the far end of the plant, and onto a conveyor belt into another, smaller building. There, a magnetic drum separated any ferrous metal from the ash, and 15 minutes after leaving the furnace each material was sorted into a separate pile to be hauled away. Roughly 1,500 tons of garbage enter the furnaces each day, and 375 tons of burnt solid waste emerge. Twenty trucks per day come into the little building, hauling the leftovers either to a metal recycler in Newark or to Grows landfill in Pennsylvania, an hour-long drive from the plant.

Soil and ash from waste-to-energy plants are used to seal in the garbage contained in a landfill; sometimes the ash is buried inside, as well. Garbage that isn’t burned has a more direct path to its grave, but it takes up 90 percent more space and is much less inert when it gets there. The raw products of an incinerator, though highly toxic, are produced over a short period of time and in a confined space where they can be contained, controlled, and cleaned. Unburned garbage in a landfill can remain toxic for at least 100 years, a continuing threat to groundwater and atmosphere. Over time, the impermeable linings installed to keep leachate contained in the landfill can rupture. Less than 20 percent of landfills around the country attempt to capture methane, the greenhouse gas made by decomposing garbage; an estimated 123 pounds of methane are released per ton that is buried. For this reason alone, incinerators have a smaller effect on global warming. Instead of methane they emit 979 pounds of carbon dioxide per ton of garbage, which is a larger quantity by weight, but 23 times less potent. The annual carbon dioxide released from the incinerator is equivalent to only 42 pounds of methane. Because of environmental and land-use concerns, other first-world regions, such as Europe and Japan, incinerate over half of their garbage, and recycle much of the rest. America sends almost all of its trash to the landfill – largely because it’s cheaper.

A waste-to-energy plant like Union County’s would cost up to $200 million to build and operate. Customers also pay more to dump their garbage at an incinerator, often paying nearly $70 as opposed to $30 per ton; but the cost difference decreases for states like New York or California that also have to pay for transportation to landfills. The Union County plant was built in 1994 by the city of Rahway, when electrical companies were required to pay more for power generated by more environmentally friendly methods such as waste-to-energy. This let the incinerators charge less to dump their garbage, and thereby compete with landfills, which are cheaper to build and cheaper to operate. During that time, which was a heyday of waste-to-energy expansion, cities were also allowed to dictate where their garbage was sent – a policy called “flow control” that guaranteed a supply of trash but was objected to by the haulers. Both laws were reversed shortly after Rahway built its plant. The confluence of community opposition and a loss of economic incentives has led to a stalemate, in which experts agree that waste-to-energy is environmentally superior to landfilling, and yet no new facilities have been built in over ten years.

By the time the ash formerly known as the Angrisoni’s garbage was spit out of the incinerator, the pollution-laden air that it generated was headed in a different direction, wending its way out through the maze-like depths of the furnace. The convoluted design guides the air away from the flames while transferring as much heat as possible into the walls, which are made from water-filled steel pipes. The hot air gives its energy to the cooler water, turning it into steam. Eventually, when all extractable heat is removed, the air enters the pollution control devices.

Twenty years ago, incinerators were shamelessly toxic, spewing out far more carcinogenic dioxins, greenhouse gasses, and heavy metals than coal-fired power plants. Today, the 88 waste-to-energy facilities in the United States produce about eight grams of dioxins each year – a quantity that could be shaped into five pills and held in the palm of your hand. In 1987, 150 times as much of the cancer-causing, plastic-based particle was being produced by incinerators. The improvements have been similar with other emissions. Modern waste-to-energy plants emit five times less dioxin, four times less mercury and two times less fossil-fuel-based carbon dioxide than coal-fired plants. Overall, yearly emissions of a garbage-burning plant fall somewhere between those of a clean-burning natural gas plant and the more dirty (but still legal) coal; in 2003, EPA administrators described waste-to-energy as having “less environmental impact than almost any other source of electricity.”

In the Union County plant, pollutants are measured at 15-second intervals throughout the system by control-room operator Don Patton and his battalion of computer monitors. Sitting at a console that looks like an early TV-version of a spaceship, he can observe and tweak the inner chemistry from the furnace to the stack. Seven-foot tall computers flash figures across screens and LED displays. Gauges and dials hover and twitch. Patton or one of his blue-jumpsuited co-workers are on duty 24 hours a day, seven days a week, to monitor the burn process, the air flow, or the pollution control chemistry in case something particularly nasty gets burned. Even so, the emissions that finally billow out of the stack fluctuate: there are bad minutes when toxins spike and good minutes when they fall, but the waste-to-energy plants reliably stay within thresholds established by federal clean air standards.

Even as the hot air passes through the maze of heat exchange contraptions in the furnace and boiler, it is bombarded with chemicals, such as carbon and ammonia, to neutralize some of the airborne toxins. By the time it leaves the boiler, or heat-collection area, the air has been stripped of most of its nitrogen oxides and mercury, two major pollutants. In a series of cylindrical structures that look like grain silos, acidic gasses are pulled out as the air is pumped into the bottom and forced upward through a lime slurry that bonds to the pollutants. From the silos, called “scrubbers,” the air is subjected to a final round of cleaning in another building called a baghouse. Filled with pipes whose walls are filter-fabric instead of metal, the air is strained of ash and lime dust and any other chunks of matter that might have clung to its momentum. This toxic dust is shaken into collection trays at the bottom, and diluted to non-hazardous levels by mixing with the furnace ash. Other waste-to-energy plants may keep it separate, and landfill it in a concrete cocoon.

By the time the air was flung into the atmosphere from a smokestack 12 stories above the Rahway River, it carried very little of the Angrisoni’s garbage that became flame less than 60 seconds before. The dioxins, nitrogen oxide and acid-forming gases that burning Styrofoam produces in abundance had been reduced to minimal levels, and only a vague heat-shimmer in the sky revealed that the stack was active at all.


Genesis

In the belly of the furnace, just minutes before leaving the stack, the creation of electricity began when the Styrofoam-warmed air parted with its heat. Every power plant needs the same first ingredient: force that can spin a wheel. It can be the force of wind or the force of water; most commonly, it is the force of steam. Hold a pinwheel over a teakettle spout, and watch the steam push a wheel. Coal, oil, natural gas, and garbage-fueled power plants are just big burners for a big stove, heating water.

Steam was first created in the furnace walls; as it expanded out of the narrow pipes in the incinerator, it was still a (comparatively) cool 550 degrees Fahrenheit and heavy with water droplets. The next part of the maze, called a “superheater,” changed all that. As the wet steam was exposed again to hot furnace air, it continued to gather momentum as the water droplets heated, expanded, and came apart, becoming a bone-dry gas packed with energy. It thundered from the far end of the superheater like an 835-degree freight train, racing across the boiler in a 20-inch pipe until it smashed with all its force into the blades of a turbine as big as a jet engine. The blades turned, and a shaft turned, and deep in the generator attached to the turbine, polar magnets spun inside a coiled nest of copper wire. Less than a split second later Audrey Angrisoni’s turkey tray had helped agitate electrons into a 13,800-volt stream of electricity.

From that moment of electrical inception, the process was close to instantaneous. The stream of power pouring out of the generator – which from the outside is an innocuously humming blue box, as tall as a man, standing in the center of a muted linoleum-tiled room, where one large window opens into the control room and another opens onto a pale patch of sky outside – is routed to a substation in a chilly, snow-dotted gravel yard only 90 feet away. There it gets ramped up to match the 26,000-volt commercial grid, which it connects to through a thick length of wire only as long as a medium-sized car. Inside that wire – hanging limp and black in the cold air, waiting for a bird to land – a superhighway of electrons rages.

When they hit the grid, the garbage-fueled electrons merge with those from nearby conventional power plants and become anonymous. Some stay behind and keep the plant itself running, but the rest stay on the turnpike of wires until they veer off, by an accident of physics and chance, to charge headlong into a lightbulb or a stereo or the burner on a stove. The home or office the electrons stumble into may have sent garbage to the incinerator; the electron chain may have been generated by their garbage, and it may not. But a contribution has been made; the Union County waste-to-energy plant could give 30,000 homes all the electricity they need if it didn’t share the grid; instead, it gives a much smaller portion of electricity to as many as 20 million separate households.

Burning the Angrisoni’s five-pound bag of garbage generated enough electricity to keep a 100-watt lightbulb burning bright for 15 hours. The four-ounce turkey tray would illuminate it for five. Back in Audrey’s kitchen, last week’s garbage helps power her electric stove, her alarm clock, her television. Outside in the back yard, the floating heater in her fishpond was fueled, for a blink of an eye, by dirty paper plates, chicken bones, and a single Styrofoam tray.

(This was originally written in 2007 as a Master's Thesis project for the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism)

Friday, April 23, 2010

Slide Ranch, teaching kids about food and farming for 40 years


On a sunny afternoon, Slide Ranch is a picture of rugged beauty perched above the Pacific. The rambling paths, gardens and outbuildings of this nonprofit environmental education center are overflowing with life. Groups of children laugh and shout as goats browse and chickens scratch by the compost bin.

April marks the fortieth anniversary of Slide Ranch, which was founded in the same month and year as Earth Day. The Muir Beach center serves 8,000 visitors annually, giving hands-on lessons in food, farming and environmental awareness.

“The program is phenomenal,” said Anastasia Pickens, a teacher who brings her fourth and fifth graders to Slide Ranch from San Francisco every year for an overnight campout. “My students have a deeper love of nature and wanting to care for the earth just because they’ve experienced such fun with it. You can guilt trip them – oh, yeah, plastics are choking the oceans – but Slide Ranch does a great job balancing that with pure joy.”

Making environmental education fun is a deliberate choice, says the organization’s executive director, Charles Higgins. “Without wanting to get too ethereal about it, we’re affecting the way that people structure their belief systems,” he said. “This is particularly important with children – how they develop their belief systems, and what they base their beliefs on.”

The value of work is one of the key lessons conveyed in an afternoon program at Slide Ranch. Kids help with various tasks around the farm, learning as they make cheese, turn compost, and feed and milk goats and other livestock. “It takes a lot of work to grow food, but all that is glossed over when you get it in a plastic package from Safeway,” Higgins said. “Getting children to realize that they need to be prepared to roll up their sleeves is an important part of the work that we do.”

Long Roots

The property now known as Slide Ranch was originally a dairy farm owned by a Portuguese family that emigrated from the Azores. But the dairy was isolated and access was difficult, and eventually the business closed its doors. A screenwriter bought the 134-acre property in the 1950s, and rented the farm’s outbuildings to various tenants who found the isolation a boon.

“It was kind of the Wild West back then,” Higgins said, arching an eyebrow. The record from those years is spotty, he added, but a number of sources suggest that the property was a hangout for drug dealers.

In 1969, the spot began on its current course. The Nature Conservancy and longtime Marin resident and philanthropist Doug Ferguson pegged the ranch as a good location for an environmental education center. The Conservancy bought the land with the help of $150,000 from Fergusen; they then enlisted the San Francisco-based Frontier Arts Institute to start an outdoor education program.

In 1974, the Nature Conservancy donated the land to Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Over the intervening years, the program has changed name and shifted its emphasis from art to ecology, but its overall mission has remained.

“The site continues to be used much in the same way that it has been for the last hundred years,” Higgins said. “The farm ethic and the sustainability ethic are more consistent with repairing and adapting existing buildings than to tearing them down and build all new buildings.”

This ethic – and the very existence of Slide Ranch in its present form – have been tested over the last decades. In the 1990s an ambitious Master Plan proposed replacing all the ranch’s characteristically weathered buildings – including those that date back to the dairy days of 1919. That plan fell flat due to fundraising failures. A second test came in 2008, when the Park Service threatened to relocate the entire facility. After substantial public opposition, that plan was also retracted.

Today, Slide Ranch offers three types of programs for visitors – one for families and one for school kids, as well as annual summer camps. Many qualify for a sliding scale, and many more visitors wander through uncounted as the ranch is part of a network of coastal hiking trails and always open to the public.

“Just remember,” one teacher said to a cheering group of kids from Marin Primary as they gathered for a closing ceremony last week, “If you ever want to come back to Slide Ranch – you can!”

Lesson in a Dome

In celebration of their fourth decade, the organization has been rehabilitating aging facilities. The key project is the refurbishment of a geodesic dome that has been one of the signature spots on the property since it was built forty years ago. The building was inspired by Buckminster Fuller and was dreamed up by Reno Taini, a teacher from Daly City, who brought his high school students to Slide Ranch each year. In 1971 he decided to give something back.

“He had the gumption to inspire his students – most of whom were girls – to cut all of the pieces in their woodshop,” Higgins said. He gestured to the building’s newly-painted and intricate support system. “Then they were trucked in here from Daly City.”

Standing about a quarter-mile south of the farm, the little building has been the destination of innumerable hikes over the years. The meadow surrounding it is where overnight campers pitch their tents, and where Anastasia Pickens brings her students each year. “For some kids is their very first time in a tent,” she said. “You can tell from their hiking that they aren’t used to uneven terrain. One boy, who is autistic, got into his tent and he was like, so where’s the light in here?”

This year’s campers will find that the dome’s familiar façade has received a modernist facelift. Plexiglas and plywood walls were replaced with a tight aluminum skin designed by staffer Steve Thompson in order to combat ongoing leaks resulting from the dome’s many angular surfaces.

Teachers at the ranch are likely celebrating another, less public project: construction of tidy one-room cabins to replace aging trailers that until now served as their housing for the year. Each cabin is designed for one person, was built primarily from recycled materials and has a priceless view of the sea.


“People who’ve been coming out for years have noticed that it still looks rustic but it looks less funky,” Higgins said. “I’m just pleased as peaches that we’ve gotten as much done as we have.”

(Originally published in the Point Reyes Light on 4/22/2010)